The Safety of Cosmetics

Americans spend about $22 billion on cosmetic products each year, and for the most part, have very little knowledge regarding their purchase. According to the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act, cosmetics are articles intended to be applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance without affecting the body's structure or functions.

They include:

• Skin-care creams
• Lotions
• Powders and sprays
• Perfumes and colognes
• Lipsticks
• Fingernail polishes
• Eye and facial makeup
• Permanent waves
• Hair colors
• Deodorants
• Baby products
• Bath oils and bubble baths
• Mouthwashes

Any product intended to treat or prevent disease, or otherwise affect structure or functions of the human body is considered a drug. Certain cosmetics are also considered to be drugs because of the therapeutic claims that they make, and must meet the labeling requirements of both classifications. Some examples would include dandruff shampoos, fluoride toothpastes that fight tooth decay, antiperspirants/deodorants, and sun-blocking/tanning preparation, including foundations that contain sunscreen.

There is a law governing cosmetics stating that no "harmful substances" may be used, but the testing for harmful substances is left up to the cosmetic company. It is not federally regulated, so cosmetic companies can use whatever ingredients they want to, with few exceptions, and remain perfectly legal. "Consumers believe that if it's on the market, it can't hurt me, and this belief is sometimes wrong," states John Bailey, Ph.D., director of FDA's Office of Cosmetics and Colors.

The only way that a consumer can find out what he is buying is to read the ingredients list. Checking the list for products that you want to avoid is the only way to ensure your safety. Although the list is federally required, it is incredibly difficult to understand. There are literally thousands of chemicals available for chemists to use in cosmetics, and using the complex name is the only way to accurately identify the substances that are used.

Scientists have now proven that there are certain chemicals that have the ability to pass through the skin. This is a huge advance in medical technology, since drugs can now be administered through patches placed on the skin, but what about the cosmetic industry? A concern is growing over those chemicals that can pass through the skin, a concern due to their cancer-causing properties.

Here are some chemicals to watch for:

• Formaldehyde- used as a preservative and disinfectant, it is a suspected carcinogen often found in shampoos.
• FD&C or D&C colors- known as coal tar, they are common ingredients found in cosmetics, hair dyes, and dandruff shampoos. They have been found to cause cancer and allergic reactions.
• Benzene and Toluene- found in nail polishes and removers; they are used as solvents and are highly toxic. They can cause convulsions, depression, and can induce coma or death.
• Propylene glycol- a solvent used for texture and stability, it can cause allergic reactions. It is found frequently in cosmetics, but can also be found in brake fluid and antifreeze.
• Nirtrosamines- formed when two otherwise safe ingredients, nitrous acid and amines, are combined. Readily absorbed into the skin, the result is highly carcinogenic.

Although the ingredient list can help you to identify which substances are included in the product that you are buying, there is no list of ingredients that can be guaranteed not to cause allergic reaction. Consumers who are prone to allergies should pay careful attention to what they use on their skin. Also, at this time, there are no regulations requiring cosmetic manufacturers to print expiration dates on the labels of cosmetic products. The brunt of the responsibility lies upon the consumer to research and make wise choices.

Watch for the following terms:

Natural: implies that the ingredients are extracted from plants or animal products as opposed to being produced synthetically.

Hypoallergenic: implies that these products are less likely to cause allergic reactions, although there are no prescribed scientific studies required to substantiate this claim.

Alcohol Free: traditionally known to mean that certain cosmetic products do not contain ethyl alcohol; however, they may contain other alcohols, such as cetyl, stearyl, cetearyl, or lanolin.

Fragrance Free: implies that a cosmetic product has no perceptible odor, although some fragrance may have been added to mask any offensive odors produced by the raw materials used.

Noncomodogenic: suggests that products do not contain common pore-clogging ingredients that could lead to acne.

Shelf Life (Expiration Date): the amount of time for which a cosmetic product is good under normal conditions of storage and use, depending on the product's composition, packaging, preservation, etc. Expiration dates are generally a rule of thumb, and a product may expire long before that date if it has not been properly stored and handled.

Cruelty Free: implies that products have not been tested on animals. Most ingredients used in cosmetics have at some point been tested on animals, so for a more accurate indication, look for "no new animal testing" on the label.

AHAs and BHAs
Because of the ability of chemicals to enter through the skin, the FDA is looking further into the case of hydroxy acids, used for their wrinkle smoothing properties. They increase the skins sensitivity to light, and scientists feel that they may also make the skin more susceptible to skin cancer, and more wrinkling from sun damage.

If you do plan to use alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) or beta hydroxy acids (BHAs):

• Test any AHA/BHA-containing products on a small area of skin before applying to a larger area.
• Avoid the sun whenever possible.
• Use an effective sunscreen when using an AHA-containing product, even if you have not used the product that day.
• Follow use instructions on the label.
• Do not exceed recommended applications.
• Do not use on infants and children.

Makeup Safety
Even though serious injury with a cosmetic product is relatively rare, it can happen. General use of common sense, and a few safety precautions can ensure your safety.

• Never drive and apply makeup.
• Never share makeup.
• Never add liquid to a product to bring back its original consistency. It can introduce bacteria that can easily grow out of control.
• Stop using any product that causes an allergic reaction.
• Throw away makeup if the color changes or an odor develops. Preservatives degrade over time and may no longer be able to fight bacteria.
• Do not use eye makeup if you have an eye infection. Throw away all products that you were using when you discovered the infection.
• Keep makeup out of sunlight. Light and heat can degrade preservatives.
• Keep makeup containers tightly closed when not in use.
• Never use aerosol beauty products near heat or while smoking because they can ignite. Hairsprays and powders may cause lung damage if inhaled regularly.